CichlidFish.com - Fish That Think.

I got a new fish tank and let it filter through for almost a day. I bout 1 oscar, 2 black fin sharks, and a pleco. The pleco and black fin sharks are doing fine, they (black fins) will not sit still so I don't think it's Ich. But my oscar does have a couple of white spots on him. Also, there is bubbles at the top of the tank that won't pop and I heard that's bad. The water is a little cloudy and the water has a funky smell. I don't know if it's ich and i've only had fish before for only a month about 3 1/2 to 4 years ago and never had that problem. Can someone please help me?

Hi, Skater:  What you have is often referred to as "New Tank Syndrome".  You may or may not also have ich, but it's quite possible that what you're seeing is small air bubbles.  In a new tank it takes a little time for all the air bubbles to go away.  It's best not to add many fish for a few weeks, as the bacteria in the tank hasn't built up enough to handle the nitrogen waste your fish are producing.  As you've already done the deed however, the question is how to get through it without losing too many fish.  First, do about a 50% water change every 2 or 3 days.  Also, keep a little salt in the water -- about a teaspoon per gallon should do.  Get some ammonia and nitrite water test kits.  It'll probably take 4-5 weeks to get through this phase.  Here's a copy of a previous thread from one of our moderators, Mark Stone, for more understanding of the process:

When cycling a tank, one of the most important things to do is . . .be patient!. When cycling a tank, you are building two bacterial colonies; one that turns ammonia into nitrite, another to turn nitrite into nitrate. Normally this process takes about 4 weeks in an aquarium your size (45). First, fish waste (and any other organic material, like uneaten food, dead plant material, tec.) decomposes into ammonia. Nitrosomonas bacteria begins to feed on the ammonia, and grows into a large colony. The by-product of this is nitrite; and then a second type of bacteria, called nitrobacter, feeds on this nitrite, turning it into nitrate. When these two colonies of bacteria are established, then your tank is cycled.

The way to tell that this is happening is to use test kits. You'll first notice, after only a few days, a steady rise of ammonia. As it reaches (almost) toxic levels, as indicated by the test kit, you'll need to do a partial water change or two to "soften" the ammonia spike. Then, just as suddenly, the ammonia levels will begin to fall -- just in time for the nitrite to begin to rise! (At this point the nitrosomonas is established, and the nitrobacter is beginning to grow - -)When the nitrite spikes you'll need to repeat the water changes to "soften the blow" so to speak. Then, nitrite begins to fall off as the ammonia did. Ammonia and nitrite will settle into a constant very low or non-detectable level, and voila! You have a cycled tank. The important point is to have patience and allow the process to take place. Keep in mind that it's a process that you watch, for the most part, and do not do.


Good luck!

Ok, but why is it only the oscar that's doing bad? The other fish are doing great, (I think). I've been trying to see how much to feed them so I don't put too much in and cause bad bacteria growth, but they won't eat, any of them. Do they need to adjust and get comfortable before they will eat? And my oscar is now leaning on his side at the bottom of the tank and it looks like he's gasping for breath. And thanks for helping me.

The others are suffering too.  Some fish are affected more than others. They aren't eating because of the poor water conditions.  Do the large water change ASAP, and get the test kits!  You'll be fortunate to keep them all alive. 

I'm new to this so I will have a lot of questions and I appreciate any help that I can get from anyone. Ok, I can do the water change with one of the gravel washers, right? And the black fins won't sit still, they are always moving, and last night they were at the top of the tank going back and forth so I put a flake or two and they swam right past them. Also, I noticed my oscar developed a new white spot on the top of his dorsal fin, (the top one, right?) so there is ich parasites in the tank. Is there anyway he could have had ich when I bought him from Wal-Mart? And my dad brought me some stuff from our Wal-Mart, they don't have much though, it's so little we can walk in and see all four walls, called quick cure that's supposed to cure ich in two days. Do I do it for two days, or for ten, because isn't the ich cycle five days and that will make sure I get rid of all of it, right? He also brought Easy Balance with Nitraban, that'll help with the nitrite and nitrate level, right? Last thing, (for now), will the sea salt that you suggest I put in hurt the other fish? Sorry for all the questions, and again, thank you.

Don't worry too much about the eating just now.  They can go without food for a few days.  In fact, many fish are too freaked out to eat much for the first couple of days after they're moved.  The critical issue right now is the water.  Yes, the Nitroban should help.  There are several good ich medications available.  I don't recall whether I've used that one or not.  In any event, follow the directions included in/on the package religiously.  Another thing you might try is one of the bacteria starter products.  Cycle is one, though I haven't found it to be of much use.  I have heard good things about Bio-Spira for kick-starting your bio-filter.  Again, follow the directions on the package closely.  There are a couple of good on-line outlets for buyiing supplies.  Here are some links:

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/S ... e=4&N=2004

http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/index.web

http://www.bigalsonline.com/

Ok, will the salt hurt the other fish or not? I'm going to a bigger Wal-Mart today so I can buy the test kits and a gravel washer so I can do a 20% water change, and I'll look for the bacteria starter kits, but I don't think I have a bio filter. I have one that has a filter with carbon then a filter with a sponge like thing to catch big particles. And, will he do better if he has another oscar with him/her? I think he's getting worse. He's just sitting at the bottom breating real hard and not moving, the current makes him sway from side to side and he doesn't try to keep himself upright. He's getting more spots, will he die from the ich? Thanks again for your help.

If you could, I would try going to a Pet Store. Sometimes (rarely) you can find someone there with real knowledge about aquariums. Walmart knows nothing about aquariums. I worked at Walmart, and I fortunatly knew quite a bit so I could help people out, but anyone else, they don't know anything.

See if you can find a Pet Store. From working at Walmart, I know that they don't always order healthy fish anyways, but that's not going to be the case in every store.

Plus, the LPS is going to have more knowledge about products, and everything.

That amount of salt won't hurt the other fish.  Also, plain table salt will work just fine.

try not 2 use quick qure it killed one of my fish if it works 4 u though awsome!

Ok, i'm going to get the test kits for ammonium, nitrite, and nitrate but, what readings mean my water quality is good?

Sorry to hear your fish are doing badly.  Dan has covered most of your points so far, I wouldn't feed the fish at all for a few days, this means that there will be less waste products for your filter to overcome, also NO other fish yet, not until your tank has cycled fully.  Your water conditions need to be ammonia 0, nitrite 0 and nitrate as low as possible, however aim just now to get it below 40ppm (it most likely should already be below 40 as the bacteria levels won't be 'eating the full ammonia &nitrite).

As for ich, are the white spots you are looking at like grains of salt ?, if so then yes most likely it is ich.  A recommended way to get rid of ich is purely with the use of salt & increasing the temp on the tank, however, in this case with the fish doing badly you could end up introducing further problems by raising the temp so trying to find a med would be the right way to go, if you can get to a LFS they will be able to advise what is best from their stock.  Incidentaly, what temp is the water at ?

As Dan also says, large water changes just now, remembering to dechlorinate the water before adding it to the tank if you have a municipal supply or it can destroy the bacteria you are trying to build up.

Ok, thank you. The temperature is at 80 F. I went to Wal-Mart and bought an airpump with hose and an 18 in. bubble screen to help with oxygen/carbon dioxide exchange. I also bought test strips for ammonium, and some strips that test nitrite, nitrate, pH, and hardiness, but since i'm at my sister's house, I have to wait untill I get home to check it. As soon as I find out I will post the results and we can go from there. Again, thank you.

Ok, I did a 100% water change and added de-chlorinator and the stuff with nitraban. After we (me and my girlfriend) re-introduced the fish to the tank I added the meds for the ich. I also put in an 18" bubble screen air stone to help with the oxygen carbon dioxide exchange. The water is pretty cloudy right now, but not a milky kind of cloudy. Right now my o is sitting in the decorative coral, but he was swimming around and he looked pretty good, hopefully the water change will help. I also bought some dried bloodworms so I can change up his diet. Can anyone tell me some other things to feed him? Oh yea, I also added the recommended amount of sea salt. Thanks.

Keep a close eye on the water.  Ammonia and nitrites should both test 0.  100% water change maybe overkill.  Keep an eye on the ammonia & nitrite especially. Let us know what your readings are.