CichlidFish.com - Fish That Think.

Kenshin_Himura wrote:I do applaud all of your efforts!  Happy to hear he has cleared up, and with good water his eyes should too.  I will keep trying to give you the most accurate info I can, or search to find it if I don't know.  Some people use an elixir of MelaFix, PrimaFix, and StressCoat, all at recommended doses for your gallonage ...  i have heard others using this method with good results, that with clean water and time usually gets the job done.  Have you tried some freshwater aquarium salt?  1 tbsp per 5 gallons ...  just dissolve it in the water you are adding back to the tank, it is better to go light on it, since the salt doesn't leave when water evaporates, then you won't have too much in there.  I used it setting up my tank, but have weened it out through my changes.  It is claimed to help 'reduce stress' and build up slime coat, so does StressCoat (as well as being a dechlorinator).

A 4ft tank is usually 55 gallons/208L.  and having gravel and filter only is a good thing for an O since they are large fish who love to swim (even if it is when we aren't looking).  An air stone would be a plus to add to the opposite side of the tank as the filter to break up more surface tension for better oxygen introduction, especially if you are the type like me to keep the water all the way at the top.  I bought a dual outlet from Wal-Mart for $20 that is quiet and works excellent.  Hosing and the blue air wands are pretty cheap too.  The pump comes with valves so you can cut flow, and a splitter so you could technically run 3 things off of it.  Doesn't come with anti-drainback valves, but they are cheap, the ones at PetSmart have air filters in them.

As far as the green poo ...  what did he he the last time ...  I know Hikari Cichlid Staple is green.  Are they any live plants?  He may be sneaking in a meal on them.  If you leave the food in the tank and don't take it out right away, he may eat when you aren't looking.   He does need to eat soon, 4 weeks is a long time.  Try getting some live crickets, frozen bloodworms, peas work too but shell them or he will and leave the shells on the bottom of your tank.  Although feeders are the best without quarantine, his instincts may kick in and he will at least get something in his tummy.

As far as the test kit ...  I have no personal experience with the one you have purchased.  You are right to follow directions well, because it can give false readings, as well as using the same test tube for different tests.  I have marked mine with paint patterns and the cards as well, to make sure I don't mix them up.  I use the API Master Test Kit.  You can print a coupon from PetSmart and save a good amount of money.  The test strips and those things that affix to your tank are not very accurate.  They also have the API nitrAte test kit separate, usually hanging on a rod.  It is also suggested to wait a while after changing water and get water from the center of your tank.

I know the names are very close but NitrIte (NO2) is what happens when the first bacteria eats the ammonia, then, you have a second bacteria in the filters that eat the nitrIte and turns it into nitrAte (NO3).  A well established bacterial colony will quickly eat up all the ammonia and then nitrIte that is produced, with the end result of nitrAte (ammonia -> nitrIte -> nitrAte;  decaying food -> nitrAte;  dirty filters -> nitrAte - always clean filters in tank/treated water).  So, that is why your ammonia and nitrIte should always read 0 ppm, if it doesn't then either your tank has un-cycled or you are going through a mini-cycle.  That could be caused by the filter not running for a long time and the bacteria starved, the bacteria was exposed to chlorine, and some say it happens when you do a 90-100% water change (which is almost always not needed)  Too bad they haven't found a bacteria to eat nitrAte and turn it into something that is not harmful.  My test kit for nitrAte has a 5, 10, 20, 40 ppm (and higher ones but 40 is bad).  When possible, I try to keep it as low as possible.  I have had readings above 10 ppm in my tap water before, but now it is gone, but I always use Nitraban which helps get rid of the traces.  I will admit, the nitrAte test is a pain.  You add 10 drops of the first bottle, shake it, shake the second bottle for 30+ seconds, add 10 drops, shake the test tube for 60+ seconds, and wait 5 minutes.

You care and try and that is what matters to me.  I want to see your friend recover and be a menacing O again.

Now, as far as water changes ...  another reason why the NO3 NitrAte test is great to have ...  If your readings are staying under 10 ppm, (for some 20 ppm others 5 ppm) ...  then you don't have to do the big water change!  Since you are used to frequent water changes, I suggest what I do and change out a bucket a day (or every other day) to clean up poo and uneaten/spewed through gills food.  Then when I do the big change, I shut my filter down and with the first bucket taken out, rinse one side of the media in the tank water, put it back in, take out the intake tube and clean the strainer and tube (the Emporer come with a handled brush).  The second time I do a big change I get the other media.  The third, I place all the filter media in the bucket, take the whole thing off and clean it with the tank water, removing the impeller and cleaning it, to make sure it doesn't get build-up to slow it down.  I am no expert, so if someone else gives you better advice as far as this goes, by all means, take it.  Make sure you are topping off the water in the filter with treated tank water too.

Keep us updated on the progress.  We are all hoping for the best.

Fred wrote:Cranking the heat will only cause the bacteria to flourish!! Also there is less oxygen the warmer the water is and by the sounds of it your oscar would do worse if you did.

Fred wrote:Cranking the heat will only cause the bacteria to flourish!! Also there is less oxygen the warmer the water is and by the sounds of it your oscar would do worse if you did.

Kenshin_Himura wrote:

Fred wrote:Cranking the heat will only cause the bacteria to flourish!! Also there is less oxygen the warmer the water is and by the sounds of it your oscar would do worse if you did.

Apparently Fred hasn't had much experience with fish.  Heat does help with Ich.  Speeds up the life cycle and i have read of a lot of people elsewhere that have used the heat and salt method and swear by it because they don't have to medicate their tank.  There are a lot of people where medicines are the last resort, clean water is number one, and other methods come first.

Heat will help good bacteria flourish, especially if you are doing a fishless cycle.  If you have clean water, you shouldn't have too much bad bacteria in it, eh?

Less oxygen content is correct, but if your water surface is being broken up enough, guess what?  there is enough oxygen and co2 transfer.  Two ways to accomplish this, either lower the water level so your hob has more of a water fall/angle your return from your canister to disturb surface water OR buy a air pump and air wand and it will break up the surface tension.

My Oscar also liked high temps (he likes low temps too, very happy oscar).

Fred, this site has some good links ...  some of them made by senior members of this forum ...  maybe you should check them out sometime before jumping to conclusions or claiming people are wrong.  It makes for a more peaceful forum.  With your PM, I think I know which one you would fit in better at.

There are a lot of people where medicines are the last resort, clean water is number one, and other methods come first.

Fred wrote:I do have a major clue about oscars. Read the message that started this thread. It said respiratory problems were suspected and that the oscar was gasping for air. Also said that anti fungals were tried and didnt say anything about ick then. Do you guys really think its wise to suggest to someone to reduce the oxygen content further when a ifsh is gasping for air? And those Ick medications usually reccomend raising the temperature to about 83/84F. not 88F. Glad all worked out for the oscar in question.