The only time you should use the attached Ammonia alert, IMO is when the tank is cycled and you have more fish in the tank than necessary.. As in a fry/grow-out tank.. BUT as you are depending on this to alert you to sudden Ammonia problem, OTHER problems are brewing in your tank..
As I stated in my other post, NITRITE is the secound process of the cycle process and it has to peak too as the ammonia did.. As you have started OVER and that is a BIG NO NO as NOW your tank has to start over the cycle process.. YOUR alert may help you here.. Please do get the Nitrite LIQUID test kit.. This wil alert you to when it gets dangerouly high.. Just like the ammonia, it can KILL your fish just as fast.. Small 20% WATER changes every other day, is the only way to keep it down...
YOU Can not kill out the ICH cleaning the tank like this.. The ICH is still on the fish so where ever you place them, they will infest that tank... ICH does not like SALT.. So get some and use the reccommended dose of 1table/per 5 gal of water.. BUT plants don't llike salt so you might have to move the plants to another tank and dose the tank as recommended... WATER changed WITh NO Salt later when the tank has cycled, wil remove the salt and then you can place the plants back in. Say in 1 1/2 months. SALT also helps you with high Nitrite.. So a double benefit here... Plants can tolerate some salt. I use hafe the dose at 1 table/per 10 gal and I have NO ICH issues at all in my tanks with a few live plants... ON water changes, ONLY salt the WATER you are placing back IN.. NOT the whole tank volume!! IF you remove 10 gal and place in 10 gal. ONLY dose the 10 gal back IN!! Salt does not evaperate, so it stays in the tank.. REMEMBER that or you may have a salt tank on your hands!!
ICH is always a threat in a new tank.. ICH lives in the gravel/fish and does not really come out unless the fish are stressed, or the temp comes down to like 72F (22C).. then goes back up to a higer temp.. This triggers the ICH to attach to a host, which is the fish to feed on their fluids.. ICH is not visable until right before they fall off.. THIS can take a few weeks... THE only time you can KILL THEM OUT, is when they are OFF THE FISH!! YOU Can med the tank while they are on, but if you stop once they fall off, then the cycle just starts all over again as they lay more EGGS in the gravel... YOU have a two day window?? to kill them out with MEDS... High temps of 82F-84F (27c-28c) and keep it their for 3 to 4 days.. TREATMENT is a parasite med especiially made for ICH.. BUT LIVE plants and plecos/scaless fish can die due to these meds.. the plants need a different tank.. Some meds for scaless fish/others use Rid-Ich+ OR Ich guard11.. REMOVE all carbon from the filter pad/other.. AS this wil remove the meds before they have a chance to work... NOW dont' med the new tank just yet!! let it cycle and watch for signs of ICH before you treat for any kind of parasite problem... this could hamper the tank from cycling...
NOW on cycling.. As you have started over, read this on cycling a tank and at the bottom is another link to take you to a time table on what to expect ' when', on a NEW tank to avoid tank syndrom..
PLEASE do not TEAR you tank down again.. YOU wil just spend money on more fish as they die from tank syndrome: AKA The cycling process..
http://www.bestfish.com/breakin.htmlAlso here as this explains the cycling process better than I can explain it: GREAT site by the way..
http://www.worldcichlids.com/faqs/cycling.html