CichlidFish.com - Fish That Think.

I am thinking about trying this on a 3oo gal setup Im planning on getting in the future - Run hot and cold plumbing up the back of the tank each with a shut off valve. From there run each into the same T ( hot and cold into one warm ) adapter which will also have a shut off valve. From there through an under sink carbon filter ( only needs replaced every 3 or so months ) to remove chlorine, metals, ect. Run a freshwater line into the tank set at about 2 gal per hour opposite the side of the overflow.

Any uneaten food or film should go into the overflow which will have a drain attached to the house plumbing. ( hence no water build up )

The way i figure at a 2 gal/hr refresh rate it will do roughly a 50% water change every 72 hrs.

Is this a good idea or bad? Any suggestions??

Originally posted by runedawg
I am thinking about trying this on a 3oo gal setup Im planning on getting in the future - Run hot and cold plumbing up the back of the tank each with a shut off valve. From there run each into the same T ( hot and cold into one warm ) adapter which will also have a shut off valve. From there through an under sink carbon filter ( only needs replaced every 3 or so months ) to remove chlorine, metals, ect. Run a freshwater line into the tank set at about 2 gal per hour opposite the side of the overflow.

Any uneaten food or film should go into the overflow which will have a drain attached to the house plumbing. ( hence no water build up )

The way i figure at a 2 gal/hr refresh rate it will do roughly a 50% water change every 72 hrs.

Is this a good idea or bad? Any suggestions??

Hi Runedawg! Welcome to the forum!

My initial concern about your suggestion is how you regulate the temperature of the water running through the T. You don't want it to be too hot or cold. Other than that it sounds pretty cool:cool:

Are you planning on going into business with this?:)

--Mark:cool:

The temp would be regulated through the use of the first two shut off valves ( one on the hot and one on the cold ) Once I get it set by adjusting each where I want them it should stay regulated. Then just open the valve on the single line for a constant flow of temp controlled water.

hi.....sounds like a good idea but i think the turn over rate of water is far too much if you have worked out a 50% water change every 72 hours.would be good to slow that rate down a little so the change was done every week.a 50% change weekly then you would get away with it ok.
also when cycling the tank at that rate of change could take forever.
i think your best bet is to go down to a good local fish store where they have 300gal + aquariums an ask how they do the plumbing on there big tanks.i do agree that you would need a set up like that to acomplish succesful water changes.either that or very big buckets!!:D
another idea.....msg stilllearnin,he has his own fish room and would give you good ideas.

Sounds similar to some of what use now and in the past.

Here's some things you might want to consider or think about.

The way i figure at a 2 gal/hr refresh rate it will do roughly a 50% water change every 72 hrs.

It doesn't work that way (don't worry I had that thought before too)

Since you have a constant filling and draining - new and old water mix then the mix goes into the drain.

Think of it like you have a two liter pop bottle 80% full of red water,you add blue water = the excess that slips out - won't be red it'd be purple. - Same pricipal for a tank except theres more to dilute.

It doesn't matter if it's not 50% but if your trying to change 50%
(like a 50 water change) you'll need ALOT more incoming water

The temp

Temp shouldn't be a problem - but if you can't match the incoming water to the temp of the tank - use cooler incoming water -It's alot easier for a heater to adjust for .5% of cooler water then it is for the fish to adjust to higher temps or temperature spikes.


I know you said you were going to use valves

Once I get it set by adjusting each where I want them it should stay regulated.

Again - same thought I had before ,if you live alone it'll be fine but if you live with other people - showers,washing dishes,laundry etc.. can change the temp even after the valves - thats why I now use slightly cooler water.

Any uneaten food or film should go into the overflow which will have a drain attached to the house plumbing.

Doesn't work - A water change system is great for HELPING keep a tank clean - but you'll still need to do regular type water changes and Vac.. the gravel. Regular water changes won't need to be done often but they'll still be needed.
I say gravel vac.. still needs done because - All food that sinks,avoids the overflow and most fish waste will also sink and avoid the overflow (even in a bare bottom tank).


adding 2gph though definately won't cause a problem on a 300 gallon tank - it's only a .5% (or less) addition/change in an hour

There's no maintance free way to keep a tank - I've tryed everything